Habana Vieja

Cuba Revisited by Tara Tayan

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Since this year’s Thanksgiving was nothing but Mucinex and Neti pots, I’ll share some of last year’s Thanksgiving break to Cuba. I love seeing family and hanging out watching the National Dog Show, eating pumpkin pie slice after slice but there is just something about being abroad during the holidays…

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We tried to pick up a few snacks but at this grocery store, like others, the shelves were almost empty. 

We tried to pick up a few snacks but at this grocery store, like others, the shelves were almost empty. 

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This is how we spent Thanksgiving day... lounging on the ruins of resorts, snorkeling, and sipping on coconut juice and rum. Can't beat it.

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El Dandy, one of the best places we stopped at for lunch in Havana.

El Dandy, one of the best places we stopped at for lunch in Havana.

Cuba Libre, rum + coke 

Cuba Libre, rum + coke 

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Colon Cemetary

Colon Cemetary

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Jose Marti Memorial, Communist Headquarters, Revolutionary Square. Aka the Eye of Mordor.

Jose Marti Memorial, Communist Headquarters, Revolutionary Square. Aka the Eye of Mordor.

A few days ago was the anniversary of the death of Fidel Castro. It was indescribable having the opportunity of being down there when something this huge just happened. The outpouring sadness and pride was incredible. The country shut down for 9 day…

A few days ago was the anniversary of the death of Fidel Castro. It was indescribable having the opportunity of being down there when something this huge just happened. The outpouring sadness and pride was incredible. The country shut down for 9 days, no booze, no music, no baseball. Many of the older generation was definitely devastated but when you looked over at the younger generation, they didn't seem to care as much. The change is looming here but the national pride and identity is so strong that the Cubans will be able to adapt, ensuring the culture will be around for years to come. 

The day we found out about Castro's death we were on our way to Cienfuegos and Trinidad. 

The day we found out about Castro's death we were on our way to Cienfuegos and Trinidad. 

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View from the Bell tower of Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco in Trinidad.

View from the Bell tower of Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco in Trinidad.

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The burning of the mountain.

The burning of the mountain.

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The hustle and bustle of the streets of Trinidad.

The hustle and bustle of the streets of Trinidad.

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A budding photographer.

A budding photographer.

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There are many ways to get around town, one way is via Coco-taxi or tuk-tuk.

There are many ways to get around town, one way is via Coco-taxi or tuk-tuk.

Our awesome driver.

Our awesome driver.

Another way around town is via pedi-cab. Here's a clip of our ride back to the Airbnb.

La Cabana, the fort that Che Guerara was in charge of. Yikes. Here, they shoot off a canon at 9 PM every night from the walls. The tradition started in the 18th century. Before they would shoot off a cannon twice per day to signal when the city…

La Cabana, the fort that Che Guerara was in charge of. Yikes. Here, they shoot off a canon at 9 PM every night from the walls. The tradition started in the 18th century. Before they would shoot off a cannon twice per day to signal when the city gates were opened and closed. They kept the 9 PM cannon shooting as part of their heritage and tradition.

The view from the fort.

The view from the fort.

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Callejon de Hamel is an alleyway located by the University of Havana created by Salvador Gonzales Escolana, a renown “afro-cuban” muralist and painter. In 1990 he started painting and adorning the street outside his apartment and eventually cre…

Callejon de Hamel is an alleyway located by the University of Havana created by Salvador Gonzales Escolana, a renown “afro-cuban” muralist and painter. In 1990 he started painting and adorning the street outside his apartment and eventually creating a unique two-block long space for musicians and artists. While looking in a gallery, one of the artists told us that Salvador came to Philadelphia to work with the mural arts program. They created “Butterflies of the Caribbean,” which you can see at 163 W. Susquehanna Ave. in Fishtown/Kensington.

The Malecon, the place to be, whether it be fishing or people watching.

The Malecon, the place to be, whether it be fishing or people watching.

This fruit, I forget the name, was super sugary and had pits in every piece but it was addicting. It was my breakfast for several days.

This fruit, I forget the name, was super sugary and had pits in every piece but it was addicting. It was my breakfast for several days.

The market next to our Airbnb.

The market next to our Airbnb.

This day was the ceremony where many Communist world leaders bid farewell to Castro. 

This day was the ceremony where many Communist world leaders bid farewell to Castro. 

We walked to Revolution Square with all the students, where it seemed mandatory for them to go. 

We walked to Revolution Square with all the students, where it seemed mandatory for them to go. 

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They chanted, waved signs, and painted their faces as they waited for the ceremony to begin.

They chanted, waved signs, and painted their faces as they waited for the ceremony to begin.

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The square filled up quickly with Cubans being bused in from nearby towns. Close to Revolution Square were food tents that were being mobbed. People seemed to buy hundreds of sandwiches at a time. No restaurants were open except for one and we got t…

The square filled up quickly with Cubans being bused in from nearby towns. Close to Revolution Square were food tents that were being mobbed. People seemed to buy hundreds of sandwiches at a time. No restaurants were open except for one and we got the last pizza. 

While we were waiting in the crowd we met this woman whose father was in the military with Castro during the Revolution. She showed us pictures of them together and his armband. 

While we were waiting in the crowd we met this woman whose father was in the military with Castro during the Revolution. She showed us pictures of them together and his armband. 

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Habana Vieja Renewed by Tara Tayan

Viva Cuba written on a dilapidated wall in Havana, Cuba, with a blue classic car.

The appeal of a trip to Cuba comes from a chance to see a culture frozen in time.  The cars, the architecture, even the people. A common explanation is the embargo created scarcity in resources giving the Cubans no choice, but to save what they had.  However, even after the Cubans had been cut off from the United States they still absorbed many foreign influences and resources. In addition, Cuban government policy has not been a direct line, instead branching off in various social experiments, each leaving its own imprint on Cuban identity.  In reality isolation has affected the island, but determination to preserve their past whether influenced by the Spanish, the Americans, or Communism has been just as important in creating the time capsule that is the island of Cuba. This reasoning made Cuba a perfect choice for our continued exploration of preservation and renewal.  

Renovated and run down buildings in Old Havana, or Habana Vieja in Cuba.
A green classic car rides by in Havana, Cuba.
An old building being renovated in Habana Vieja, Cuba.
In Habana Vieja, Cuba by the Chinatown section with classic old cars.

There is a common belief that Cuba is facing an eminent change as the centralized socialist government loosens its grip and allows for private capitalist in-roads.  From our experience it seems the Cuban government is still calling the shots, though tourism is no doubt increasing, the government is overseeing most of the preparation for an increase in tourism.   Historical Old Havana is one area where the Cuban government has undertaken large-scale urban renewal, although with increasing monetary help from the international community.  

The National Restoration award is given by the Ministry of Culture.

Construction for the restoration of Old Havana in Cuba in Plaza Vieja.
Construction occurs down the streets and walkways of Old Havana in Cuba.
Restored shiny red 1950's classic car in Havana, Cuba, near Chinatown.
Gutted old building in Havana, Cuba, taken with 35mm camera film.
Plants grow out of abandoned buildings in Havana, Cuba.

When walking through Old Havana, in Cuba called Habana Vieja, the initiative is clear.  There is reconstruction on every street, but judging by the buildings that have not been renovated, preserving the Spanish architecture of Habana Vieja had not always been an option financially or was not prioritized.   Some of the historical structures may not have been preserved, but they were also not torn down and replaced by some modern building, so the potential to renew and preserve Habana Vieja’s architectural past is a very real option.  There are parts of Old Havana that look like Disney World, but a block away there are houses completely gutted, overgrown with vegetation.   The large-scale renovations are centered near historically significant structures and plazas. This seems to be done with some international financial assistance.

The "Capitolio" restoration is partially funded by the American based Havana Heritage Foundation.

The "Capitolio" restoration is partially funded by the American based Havana Heritage Foundation.

Near Plaza Vieja, an old building is being restored, Havana, Cuba.
Habana Vieja is a cultural hub in Cuba, filled with photographers, artists, and craftsmen.
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This sign advertises foreign investment in Plaza Vieja shown below.

The Plaza Vieja, or Old Square, in Old Havana, Cuba emerged in 1559.
Pigeons fly over the Plaza Vieja on a sunny day in Havana, Cuba.
The San Francisco Cathedral built in the late 16th century and then altered in the 18th century.

The San Francisco Cathedral built in the late 16th century and then altered in the 18th century.

The San Francisco Cathedral facade built in the 16th century in Havana, Cuba.
A renovated street in Old Havana, Cuba.
A view of El Capitolio in Habana Vieja, Cuba.
A view of the San Francisco Cathedral in Old Havana, Cuba.
Behind the cab lies the Central Park.

Behind the cab lies the Central Park.

The view from "La Cabana," a fort overlooking Habana Vieja.

The view from "La Cabana," a fort overlooking Habana Vieja.

Panoramic view of Old Havana, Cuba.

There is also small-scale redevelopment in Habana Vieja in the form of new shops, bars, and cafes with similar hip appearances to the gentrified areas of American cities. Certain spaces are also being made available for selling Cuban art and handmade goods.  

Clandestina is a designer boutique with a unique, independent brand. They provide a map showing like-minded businesses in the area.

Clandestina is a designer boutique with a unique, independent brand. They provide a map showing like-minded businesses in the area.

El Dandy is a café and art gallery shown on the map.

El Dandy is a café and art gallery shown on the map.

The San Jose Artisan Market provides a space to sell art and handmade goods.  It is located on the docks as seen below.

The San Jose Artisan Market provides a space to sell art and handmade goods.  It is located on the docks as seen below.

The back of the San Jose Artisan Market with painters and other crafters, in Havana, Cuba.

As far as residential housing, we found that the majority of the refurbished housing in Habana Vieja are Casa Particulars.  Casa Particulars are housing options provided by Cuban citizens who in effect rent the apartment for the purpose of renting it to tourists. The government heavily regulates the Casa Particulars; our host gave us government paperwork to fill out documenting our passport information and length of stay.  

You can expect to pay top dollar to stay in a casa particular on a street like this.

You can expect to pay top dollar to stay in a casa particular on a street like this.

Casas in Havana, Cuba.
A casa particular might be a little cheaper on a street like this.

A casa particular might be a little cheaper on a street like this.

We stayed at a much cheaper apartment west of Habana Vieja, but still centrally located.

We stayed at a much cheaper apartment west of Habana Vieja, but still centrally located.

A gutted, torn down house in Old Havana, Cuba.
A classic car in Havana, Cuba, late afternoon.

A short drive east of the city lie the East Havana Beaches, an underdeveloped strip of shoreline with a few dated hotels and the remains of a few others.  Its proximity to Havana makes it surprising to find relatively empty beaches.  This area will most likely change profoundly in the coming years.

We rented beach chairs from a woman who seemed to have a thriving beach equipment rental and food/drink delivery hustle.

We rented beach chairs from a woman who seemed to have a thriving beach equipment rental and food/drink delivery hustle.

Someone's shorts

Someone's shorts

A deteriorating beach and seaside resort, outside of Havana in Cuba.
A near-empty beach on the outskirts of Havana in Cuba.
A beachfront restaurant serves up great views of the local Cuban beaches and some good food too.
Deserted beaches outside of Havana, Cuba.
Palm trees line the beaches outside of Havana, Cuba.

However, the Cubans are not starting from scratch in their preparation for an increase in tourism; there are many bars, restaurants and hotels around before the revolution, maintained during the revolution and are still there today.  

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Unique Spanish architecture decorates this refurbished Cuban hotel in Havana.
Hotel Raquel

Hotel Raquel

Plus, there has always been the Malecon.  

A place for fishing, walking and just hanging out.

A place for fishing, walking and just hanging out.

A newly refurbished classic car makes its way down the Malecon in Havana, Cuba.
Locals and tourists walk the Malecon at night in Havana, Cuba.

Stay tuned for more on our Cuban adventures in our next sections about the Cubans people's history and culture!